Transitioning

What to Expect When Transitioning to Natural Hair

One of the biggest problems women face when making the transition is the problem of losing length. Many Black women struggle all their lives to go their hair long. Women with chemically treated hair have often experienced unexplained breakage, particularly around the nape of the neck. Giving up any length at all is difficult for these women.

Sometimes women will try to keep their permed hair's length and just make the relaxed hair natural again. IT'S NOT POSSIBLE (so just chop that junk off!!! =P). Once hair has been chemically relaxed, that particular piece of the hair shaft is forever altered in its texture. The new growth (from the scalp) will be natural hair. But, the new growth will always be attached to the chemically treated hair until the hair falls out at the root.

A big mistake some women make is trying to grow in the natural hair and keep the permed hair without a real strategy for transitioning. This will not only look bad as you have the natural roots and the straight remainder of the hair, it can lead to excessive breakage: every natural sister's fear. The part of the hair where the natural hair joins the permed hair tends to be weak and the hair can easily break there.

So, in making the transition, there are two choices. You can keep the permed hair at the end of the natural hair that is coming in and try to minimize the breakage. Or you can just go ahead and cold turkey chop that junk off and completely get rid of the relaxed hair.

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How to Make the Transition to Natural Hair

There are really only a few ways to accomplish the transition from chemically treated to natural hair. The most simple and fastest way is to simply chop off the permed hair all at once.

· Cut off the relaxed hair- This is the fastest and boldest way to make the transition. Instead of going in for that touch up at six or either weeks, you can simply visit your salon and have your stylist cut off all of the permed hair. Or you can waltz right into that bathroom with your camera, scissors, mirror, and comb and do that junk yourself!!!!!!!!!!!!

· Although, depending on how much new growth you have, you will be fairly limited in styling options. Some women opt to go with a Teeny Weeny Afro (TWA) (See TWA tab). Or, twist and braid outs can be pulled off with just about any length hair.

· Braids and/or extensions- One way to maintain your length while you transition is to have hair (human or artificial) braided into your own hair. This will mask the difference in texture between your new growth and the permed hair and give you length while you are growing in enough natural hair to feel comfortable making the "big chop".

· Sisterlocks- Personally I'm not too familiar with this style but here is the link: http://www.sisterlocks.com

If you choose to keep your relaxed hair while you are growing in your natural hair, please be aware that your hair is more fragile than normal while making the switch. You want to minimize the amount of heat you are using to style it, minimize how much you have to handle (comb) it and make sure you keep it very well moisturized. I'd recommend the use of some kind of silk head scarf, this will prevent your pillowcase from wicking moisture away from your hair and reduce breakage from the friction of rubbing your head on the pillow.

How Not to Make the Transition to Natural Hair

While making the transition to natural hair, there are some things you will want to avoid. Trying to "revert" the relaxed hair with chemicals might make it frizzy. But, it's never a good idea to pile one chemical treatment on top of another. These products will not make your hair natural again. Some women will try pressing out the natural hair to make it look like the permed hair. But what is the point in that if you're trying to get your natural look???

It seems like a good idea, but, it's putting stress on your hair and it's causing breakage. Also excessive pressing of natural hair can end up permanently straightening it, ending up delaying the transition you're trying to make as you've now got three textures of hair- hair chemically straightened, hair permanently straightened by heat and natural hair.

Transitioning to natural hair in other ways, like pressing the natural hair as it grows in underneath the relaxed hair is going to make your hair prone to breakage and can damage the natural hair you're trying to grow in. While transitioning, try to find a style that will incorporate the new growth coming in with the relaxed hair- something like twists or braids.

Finding a Natural Hair Transition Style

Finding a way to style your hair while making the transition may be the biggest challenge you will face when it comes to making the switch (aside from products and) the snide comments you might get from friends and family. *What your friends and family think about your hair is NOT important. Unless they know what you are going through and know how important this decision is, and how big of a step transitioning is, their opinions do not matter. You're always gonna hear people's messed up comments and get looks like they got somethin wrong with their face, but it doesn't matter because we are QUEENS.

Alas, trying to figure out how to style your hair when it's extremely short may be something you've never done before. Or trying to figure out how to style your hair when the roots are kinky/curly and the rest of the it is straight will be new for most people. There are several options. Here are a few

· Teeny Weeny Afro-just bite the bullet and be done with it. Do the "big chop" and rock a small afro for a while and come join me, and be a short haired African Queen, and rock the land like you all belong to me, can't touch my confidence in who I wanna be, so sit back and watch your words bounce right off of me

· Braids or SisterLocks- you can either choose to do extensions: braiding additional hair into your relaxed hair, or you could go with SisterLocks which can be started with as little as 1-1/2" of new growth at the scalp and the rest of the hair still relaxed.

· Two Strand Twists or Comb Twists- This is very simple yet effective you can wear for years. It probably won't work well with relaxed hair as the relaxed hair won't hold the style. But, if you decide to cut your hair, you can part your hair into sections like you would do if you were going to plait it. Then, either twist a strand a comb or, using your fingers, take two strands and twist them around each other. This style can be worn for a week or two before you have to re-style. But, be careful. If you wear your hair this way too long before restyling, you hair will begin to lock and you will receive one stranded knots as a present :) NO. Switch up your transitioning styles and take the style down every once in a while.

· An added bonus to wearing two-strand twists is the "twist out" style. A few days before you're ready to restyle your hair, just remove the twists and you'll find your hair has natural crinkles in it.

· Straw Set - this is a nice styling option if you want to hang onto your relaxed hair. The tight curls hide the different textures between your roots and ends much less noticeable.

· Crinkle Set or Twist Out- some women will plait or twist their hair with no intention of wearing it out of the house in that style. I used to do this when my hair was permed. When my hair was wet, I'd plait it in very large plaits and then remove them after my hair was dry. A setting gel will help hold the look. This is simple and cute look.

· Flat Twists- basically the same as cornrows. The difference is you use two strands of hair instead of three.

Natural and Transition Hair Styles for Black Women

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Transitioning Tips

While transitioning to natural hair you will have to suffer through two different textures: your natural hair that you are growing in, and your relaxed hair. There are two ways that you can transition into your natural hair. One way is to do a long term transition. This is when one grows out their new growth until it gets to a comfortable link before they cut off the relaxed ends. This is what the two textures will look like :

You can barely see it but there is about 1 inch of new growth there =P

This one isn't me but it is a clearer picture of the two different textures.

The point where the natural and relaxed hair meets is called the line of demarcation

The second way to go natural is to just simply cut it all off!! That is the quickest way to achieve the results of becoming an instant natural!!!

If you are choosing to do a long term transition there are a few things you need to know:

• Be Gentle with Your Hair: The weakest part of your hair right now is known as the demarcation line. This is the point where your natural hair meets your straight hair. This area needs to be handled very carefully to avoid breakage that can result in you loosing the length you are trying to achieve before cutting. The easiest way to handle this part is to work with your natural hair by wearing your hair in curly styles. Also avoid constant hair manipulation so that this area is left to grow without any wear and tear.

• Determine Your Transitioning Style: The purpose of a transitioning style is to blend the two textures of hair-natural and straight. Finding a style that can be your go-to-style throughout this process makes it so much easier. Transitioning styles keep hair manipulation to a minimum encouraging healthy hair growth. Try these favorites:

• Wet Sets: Setting your hair with magnetic rollers or bendable rods is a gentle way to blend the two textures and does not rely on direct heat.
  
  
  
  

• Flat Twists: Similar to corn rows flat twists are done by using two strands of hair instead of three to lie flat on the head. If your hair is past shoulder length you can gather this part into a ponytail or bun to secure the ends.

• Twists Outs: This is a favorite for many transitioners. Use two strands of hair to twist the hair into sections that are secured at the ends with perm rods or bendable rods depending on the curl that you want to achieve. After allowing the hair to set (or dry if done wet) remove rods and untwist hair to achieve a full hair effect.

Yet another CLEARER picture

• Braid Outs: Similar to twists but uses three strands instead of two.
• I prefer braid outs to twist outs because I get more height!!!!! I just comb it into an afro

                                                          Picture of an actual braid out. (not me)

• Extensions: Whether sew-in weaves, half-wigs or braids these hairstyles provide a way to get a curly look or protect the hair from breakage. Neither hairstyle should be too tight or pull the hair because this can damage the natural hair that is growing in.

• Moisture, Moisture, Moisture: Keeping the hair moisturized is a MUST for transitioning as well as being natural. Dry hair breaks! Water of course is the best moisturizer and can be sealed in with carrier oils as well as water based leave-in conditioners.

• Cut Down on the Heat: There really is no need for a blow dryer or flat iron anymore since your working on achieving your natural curls. That direct heat is damaging to your curls despite them being natural. Flat irons can definitely change your curl pattern even making it impossible to achieve the curl you want naturally or with rods. If heat must be used for drying the hair try a diffuser or hooded dryer since they give off good heat (indirect heat).

• Detangle when hair is wet ONLY: Wetting hair completely and using a conditioner with a lot of slip makes it much easier to detangle hair. Using a wide-toothed comb and fingers (which are the best natural comb) and starting at the ends working your way up is the best way to detangle your hair!!

• Keep the Scalp Clean: This can be by washing hair with a sulfate-free (does not dry out hair or remove natural oils) shampoo once a week or co-washing (conditioner washing) 2-4 times a week. It depends on you and your preferences (experimenting will help you to learn you hair and it's needs) but cleanse the scalp anywhere from every 2 days to every 2 weeks. Also if co-washing is your choice for washing your hair be sure to clarify the hair at least once a month (to 2 months) to remove excess product build-up.

• Deep-Conditioning is A Must: Natural hair does not lack protein but moisture is always a necessity. Get used to moisture treatments and hair mask made especially to provide that moisture element. If you want to avoid expensive treatments try using your detangling conditioner and adding olive oil (honey as well in less humid months) which ups the moisture factor for your hair!!